Photos of the Day – Zemun, Serbia

Boats on the Danube River, Zemun

Life is good

Fishing on the Danube River in Zemun, Serbia

Spot the Duck

Retired boat

Grafitti

 

Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection of Art in Novi Sad

Next door to the Gallery of Matica Serbia there is the fascinating Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection of Art.

 Who is Pavle Beljanski?

Pavle Beljanski was born in a sleepy town on the Danube River, Veliko Gradiste, in Serbia, in 1892, into a respectable middle-class family. After school he went to study law at Belgrade University, but WWI came along and he abandoned his studies to enrol into the Pupils’ Battalion in Skopje, winning several medals before he contracted TB and was invalided out of the army. Pavle then went to Paris to study law at the Sorbonne, and after the war to Stockholm to work as a clerk in the embassy of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes there.

This was the beginning of a very interesting diplomatic career and the beginning of his renowned art collection. He started buying in Berlin and Vienna when he was posted there, striking up friendships with young artists such as Marino Tartalja who were studying in Europe’s major cultural capitals, and when he returned to Belgrade in 1925 he kept up these friendships with young artists from his own country. He decided to collect the works of contemporary artists whose quality was recognised internationally, and create an anthology of his nation.

Between the two world wars Beljanski worked hard on expanding his collection and appointed the painter Jefto Peric to choose and buy pieces. He also promoted their work through exhibitions and writing reviews for numerous art magazines.

WWII disrupted his plans and his main worry was to keep his collection safe and out of reach of the Nazis. When the Germans formed a commission for the seizure of works of art in Belgrade, Beljanski was tipped off by a good friend who was a member of the commission. Beljasnki hid all his art in a box, and buried it in the coal cellar, keeping out any expensive frames which he displayed with mediocre paintings in them. When the commission come to value his collection they decided it wasn’t of a ny importance and left. He later said: “ Each of these painting is part of my life! Each of them went through my heart… “

This devotion to his collection saved his life during WWII. His family moved to Svilajnac in order to avoid the full atrocities of the German invasion of Belgrade  but Beljanski decided to stay in the city and look after his paintings. Unfortunately Sviljanc was bombed on 24^th September 1944 and the Beljanski family house was hit. Pavle Beljanski lost two sisters, a brother and their families. Beljanski was left on his own.

At the end of WWII the new country of Yugoslavia needed experienced diplomats and Pavle Beljanski was invited into the diplomatic corps again. As a skilful and knowledgeable diplomat he established relations with many countries and as a result was rewarded by different countries such as Poland, Ethiopia, Greece and Egypt. Beljasnki’s second spell in the diplomatic service lasted officially until 1958.

In October 1945 an exhibition of 67 paintings was arranged at the City Museum in Sombor. This exhibition was the first one in post-war Yugoslavia but also it was the first time Beljanski could see his collection in a gallery. The following year he arranged for several foreign diplomatic missions in Yugoslavia to visit the exhibition which despite being his private property, was thereby approved as ideologically sound by his communist masters. The same year ten paintings were chosen for a major retrospective exhibition of painting and sculpture of the people of Yugoslavia 19th and 20th centuries, which toured several Eastern European capitals.

Between 1952 and 1957 120 works from the Pavel Beljanski Collection were chosen for exhibition at the National Museum in Belgrade. Due to the size of the collection not all pieces could be shown at once, the exhibits were rotated to bring as many works to the public as practically possible. Pavle considers donating his art to a museum but under certain conditions, the main one being that part of it always had to be displayed, and displayed apart from other paintings in the museum. Only the museum in Vojvodina accepted his conditions and in 1957 he signed a contract with the Executive Council who built a gallery just for the Beljanski Collection.

The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Art Gallery contains paintings, sculptures, drawings and tapestries over two floors. One of the smaller parts of the Memorial is dedicated to Pavel Beljasnki’s life and you can see his diplomatic uniform, photographs of his parents, his medals and his first art collections. From a total of 185 works you can find 144 exhibited.

Entry is just £1. The Pavle Beljanski Memorial is open  from Wednesday to Sunday from 1000-1800, Thursday 1300-2100 and closed on Monday and Tuesday. The list of paintings at the Pavle Beljanksi Memorial Collection you can find here.

If you are looking for a day trip to Novi Sad and the Pavle Beljanski Memorial with a private guide, driver and car please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com 

Bus ride from Serbia to Bosnia via Croatia

 

His posture was like Fagin’s from Oliver Twist, only he was collecting bus tickets not money.

“If we get refused entry I’ll blame you!“ he said, not making eye contact.

I began to calculate the number of passengers on the bus times the cost of the ticket and blessed all my debit cards stacked in my wallet. I had enough money to pay for return tickets for all of us, luckily only 12!

“Have you ever crossed the border with a British Passport?“’

“Many times, but not  the Croatian border from the Serbian side! “

He shook his head in disbelief and walked off, cursing loud enough for me to hear.

I felt bad but secretly I knew there shouldn’t be any problem travelling by bus from Belgrade into Bosnia via Croatia as I checked the FCO advice and they clearly state there are no visa requirements for UK nationals when travelling to any of these countries. The problem is that when purchasing your bus ticket no one asks you which passport you are travelling on as they presume that you are a national either of Serbia, Croatia or Bosnia in which case you don’t need a visa and sometimes you can cross borders with local ID. I could cross the border directly from Serbia to Bosnia but the bus journey is horrendously long – 12 hours!

After a drive of only an hour and a half through the so-called Panonnian Sea of cultivated fields we arrived on the western border of Serbia. A guard with a serious face half covered by his hat came on board and colleted the IDs, passports and travelling documents which Mr Fagin had collected. We quickly moved into the no-man’s land between Serbia and Croatia. On the Croatian side there was a big decorated Christmas tree – I’m sure one wouldn’t be erected on  the Serbian side for our Christmas on the 7th January. Serbia and Croatia don’t celebrate the same Christmas but they have so much else in common. On the Croatian side there are lots of flags and in the corner of the lorry parking space I can spot the EC panel, a little bit damaged though.

Nothing happens and the 12 passengers including me are getting nervous, agitated and bored. Suddenly Mr Fagin announces we all have to get off the bus and go through passport control in a nearby building. Once in the building one of the older ladies asks an official if she could use the loo only to be refused as its’ apparently only for employees. We queue quietly, waiting for something to happen. I am the last one, childishly thinking if they refuse me the rest of the group could run off saying I am not with them.

Three girls young enough to be my daughters nonchalantly check my passport talking about boys and smoking. Was smoking banned in Croatia? I am sure it is in Serbia. The girls are clearly enjoyimg  their deep puffs which convinced me that smoking is de facto banned in Croatia but we are in the middle of nowhere, two days before Christmas, when most bosses are on holiday. Smoking is allowed today.

I came out of the building to meet Mr Fagin with a big smile, relieved that I was allowed to enter Croatia on my UK passport.

The drive between the Croatian and Bosnian border was monotonous and slow with a rattling coming from the old engine. The bus’s condition was very alarming , the seats were old, dirty, worn out and I was surprised it was allowed to cross international borders in its present conditions. I tuned my MP3 player into different radio stations which sometimes were Croatian, sometimes Bosnian, Hungarian, German and Serbian – all these different nationalities once lived in one country – Yugoslavia. It seemed Lady Gaga hadn’t arrived here  yet as all the radio stations broadcast music from the 80s. After three hours’ drive we arrived at the border of Bosnia but first we had to exit Croatia. The narrow road, not even a motorway, was packed with lorries from different countries: Macedonia, Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia…Again a uniformed guard come on board to collect passports and again they were returned by Mr Fagin. To enter Bosnia you have to cross the River Sava and to cross the River Sava you have to go over the bridge which was built during Tito’s time -­ it was narrow and slowed down the crossing even further. Once on the Bosnian side, the passports were collected by Mr Fagin, presented to a bored official and returned to us swiftly.

After five hours and four border crossings Mr Fagin was more than happy, he even managed a wink. We had arrived in Bosnia.

Meet the Romans in Serbia

 

I was sat right at the top, in the Royal Opera House it would have been seat Y51 – very high up with a restricted view. Looking down and behind the half naked archaeologist who was unmoved by the burning sun I could almost see Russell Crowe fighting ferociously for his freedom. Behind me was a flat green field with occasional glimpses of the Danube river, on whose bed was preserved this rich archaeological site.

 “We are standing at the top of the amphitheatre with a capacity of 12,000 seats” the voice of the enthusiastic guide woke me up.

We are at Viminacium, one of many Roman towns and fortress in Serbia, not far from the capital city Belgrade. It covers a huge area and some of it is still undiscovered due to the presence of the nearby power plant which produces 20% of Serbia’s energy. The government is trying to buy land still owned by the local people to stop the theft of artefacts that are uncovered after heavy rain.

Large numbers of lamps, bricks, paving tiles, rings and coins have been uncovered and exhibited either at the Museum in Pozarevac or the Museum in Belgrade. The Viminacium complex is building their own museum too at the moment.

The site has beautiful tombs decorated with frescoes whose colour was still bright and with mixed pagan and Christian symbolism. Tomb G5517 has a Christogram in a double floral garland and this is known as a Constantine Cross, after the first Roman Emperor to convert to Christianity. Tomb G2624 has animals and flowers and is clearly pagan, thus proving that Christians and Pagans were sometimes buried in the same cemetery.

Serbia has the largest number of Roman emperors born outside of Italy – 17 altogether, among them Constantine I and Justinian I. The tourist board has put together a project to combine visits to all the major Roman excavations on Serbian soil, called Itinerarium Romanum Serbiae. It will incorporate Sirmium, today known as Sremska Mitrovica, Singindunum which is Belgrade, Viminacium or Stari Kostolac, combined with visits to the forts of Nis, Kostol and Karats. The itinerary also includes visits to the imperial residences at Gamzigrad and the UNESCO site, Šarkamen, Mediana and Iustiniana Prima .

2013 will see the 1,700 anniversary of the Edict of Milan by which Emperor Constantine legalised Christianity throughout the Roman Empire, and celebrations will take place in the city of his birth, Nis. A historic moment is planned when the Pope and the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church meet formally for the very first time.

 For more information about travelling to Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or check our website at www.ReadyClickAndGo.com

A Night at the Museum in Belgrade, Serbia

 

For the eighth year in a row Belgrade is organising a Museum Night! This will take place on the 14 May 2011. Contrary to the movie “Night at the Museum” where Ben Stiller discovers that an ancient curse causes the animals and exhibits on display to come to life and wreak havoc, Museum Night in Belgrade is more havoc but in the sense that all these people who never had the time or money to go to a museum suddenly decide to go. The opening hours of the museums are 6pm-2am, and the best thing is that you buy one entry ticket for the price of RSD350 (approx. 3.5 EURO) and the ticket is valid for all museums and events open that night! Even public transport is free of charge with a museum ticket. 

In Belgrade there will 95 events at 67 locations scattered around the city, and 58 other towns and cities in Serbia will host similar events. In order to see as much as possible you would need to plan and prepare, but the best way to start is at the official website of the Museum night - the only problem is that the site is in Serbian but at least with Latin script rather than Cyrillic! http://www.nocmuzeja.rs/ 

Expect a lot of crowds but not the regular ones like the usual strikers on the streets asking for their jobs back, but happy crowds, running from one part of the city to another and in passing exchanging tips on where to go and what to see. This is an excellent opportunity to find out more and learn about little secrets in this city with a uniquely fascinating history. The last time I went on a Museum Night stroll in Belgrade I visited the Bank Museum which I didn’t even know existed even though I was born in the city. We had a fantastic time learning about money in Serbia since the Tsar Dusan, the first Emperor of Serbia, whose coinage was on display.

 Except for the unusual opening times at the standard museums such as Konak of Kneginja Ljubica, Art Museum, Natural Museum, Jewish Historical Museum etc, there are some exhibitions open just for this night, Museum night. 

At the Kalemegdan Fortress near the impressive Military Museum boys will be able to see a workshop for forging iron swords and try their skills at making a sword themselves. Not far from them, the girls will have unique opportunity to see the art of making hats and to try and make one too.

The Faculty of Philosophy will have an open door and show how old Romans played social games, the National Tourism Board of Serbia has an interactive exhibition called Danube Adventure where you can see how to cycle along the Danube river on the famous Eurovelo 6 route which goes all the way to the Black Sea. At the Educational Museum there is the possibility to learn about the process of making wine in Serbia. At the Villa of King Peter Karadjordjevic you will be able to see for the first time hundreds of photos of the king, his family, contemporaries and events. Brazil will be represented at the night of Museums at Kalemegdan Fortress with different dances, concerts and readings of Brazilian stories. There will be an excellent opportunity for train spotters at the Railway Museum with an exhibition of the Blue Train which was Tito’s official train and carried a huge number of foreign dignitaries such as Indira Ghandi and Queen Elizabeth. For the first time the exhibition will display the original features from this period: busts and paintings, official stationery, models, emblems, charters, badges and schedules of the Blue Train.

Lots to see and experience but not enough time to squeeze everything into 8 hours. Definitely an excellent opportunity to get to know Belgrade and Serbia! 

For more information what to see and do in Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com

Art, Wine and Honey in Novi Sad, Serbia

 

The National Museum in Belgrade, Serbia is the largest and oldest museum in Serbia, and has over 400,000 objects including many foreign masterpieces. Unfortunately the Museum has been closed for renovations for more than five years.

If you wish to learn more about Serbian national art we at ReadyClickAndGo would suggest you visit Novi Sad, Serbia’s second city, just an hour and a half north of Belgrade along scenic country lanes, or, if you can read the Cyrillic alphabet, you can get the train, or take the bus down the motorway.  

The Matica Srpska Gallery in Novi Sad is to be found in the old Stock Exchange building and it has more than 7,000 works of art, especially that from Vojvodina from the 17th century onwards. All the exhibits have English translations. On the ground floor are copies of the frescoes painted by Christopher Zefarovic at the Bodani Monastery in 1737, on the first floor are paintings and carvings, including precious icons from the Orthodox churches of Vojvodina. The second floor has a permanent exhibition called People and Events, and displays pictures from 1900 to 1940 when the country was fighting for freedom and its national identity, and on the third floor are superb paintings from some of Serbia’s greatest artists, classic, romantic and realist – Constantine Daniel, Dure Jaksic, Uros Predic, Paja Jovanovic, Save Šumanović and Milan Konjovic. There are also the famous paintings ‘The Cockfight’ and ‘Wounded Montenegrins’ and one by Jovanovic for the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900, a huge historical composition, ‘The Proclamation of Dusan’s Law’. The Matica Srpska Gallery is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 1000–1800, Friday 1200-2000. The entry fee is RSD200 whcih is around 2 euros. Try to visit during the week as there will no one there except you and you can have the whole place to yourself.  

 

Next to the Gallery there is the Memorial Collection of Pavle Beljanski who was a diplomat and huge lover of art who dedicated his collection to the Serbian nation. This gallery is open Wednesday to Sunday 1000–1800 and on Thursdays from 1300- 2100. Entry is RSD300.Opposite these two galleries there is another, this time of a collector called Rajko Mamuzic who also dedicated his collection to the Serbian people - it is well worth a visit and is also free of charge.

On the way back to Belgrade we stopped at the Musuem of Bee Keeping and Wine Celler at the Zivanovic family home. We met Mr Zarko Zivanovic whose great-grandfather was a professor at the famous Karlovac grammar school but was also the founder of modern beekeeping in Serbia and a man who had a great knowledge of wine making.
In the family house is a unique beekeping museum with objects you rarely see nowadays but which used to be common – such as beehives made of thin strips of dried wood woven into a dome shape and covered in mud – very different from the beehives made today. Extracting honey in the old days was rather hit-and-miss and of course, there were no protective clothes then either – but people did believe that beestings were good for the blood! The honey at the Zivanovic farm is very clear and thick, not runny, which shows there are no preservatives added, unlike what you get in a supermarket.

Along with beekeeping and producing high qualilty honey the Zivanovic family is at the forefront of wine production in Serbia and are winning awards, diplomas and medals at home and internationally. They own huge vineyards 200 m above sea level near the Danube on the slopes of the Fruska Gora mountain, and their wine is produced in 300-year-old cellars. Their Ausbruch wine was on the wine list on the Titanic. Their greatest secret is the old recipe, passed down through the generations, from which is prepared Bernet wine, and this Bernet was served at the Russian, English and Viennese courts right up until the First World War. Similar to Port but much stronger, it is made from natural wines with the addition of 27 different ingredients such as raisins, beans, mustard, nutmeg, vanilla and figs. If you are passing through Novi Sad visit this unique place and you won’t regret it - you can book combined visits to the museum and the wine cellar with wine and honey tastings too.
As an added bonus I would recommend you try to sneak inside Mr Zivanvic’s house to meet his grandmother, a beautiful, charming lady with an unbelievable zest for life which I guess is the result of plenty of healthy honey and fine wine!
For more information about Serbia and travelling to Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com

Build it Bigger in Belgrade, Serbia

In our post “The Newest Attraction in Belgrade“ dated 23rd December 2010 we mention one of Belgrade’s most eye-catching landmarks taking shape, a new bridge across the Sava River that will be the largest asymetric single-pylon cable-stayed bridge in the world.

The main span of 376m has no supports actually in the Sava so as not to restrict shipping even during construction, and the deck is anchored by 80 stay cables as thick as a man’s arm and a single pylon 200 metres high – one of the highest points in the city. The whole bridge including the main span will be nearly a kilometre long and 45 metres wide with 6 road traffic lanes, 2 railway lines and 2 cycle and pedestrian paths, and it is due for completion in September 2011. See more at Sava Bridge website.

You can watch program about Construction of the Serbia’s Largest Bridge on the Discovery Channel on the 6th May at 10pm.
 
For more information about traveling in Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com

 

What to see in Belgrade, Serbia

Am I the only Yugoslavian who hasn’t visited the Flower House, the resting place of the last President of Yugoslavia, Tito? I was born and brought up under liberal communism and I should be grateful to him – Tito. But I was never confirmed into Tito’s youth organisation, the Pioneers, which had an initiation ritual which was almost religious, albeit without the live animals but a kid’s soul instead, and with no mention of God, only Tito. This was when you had to confirm your commitment to your homeland, brotherhood and unity and fellow Pioneers, but a few weeks before my big day I got appendicitis and was hospitalised and never again got the chance to declare my love for my country or see the communist light. When he died I didn’t feel obliged to pay my respects to his casket or visit his tomb, even though I was constantly pestered to. I just didn’t feel the need. Then 20 years later, after exploring the EC in depth by living in various countries, a friend decided to come to Belgrade and visit Tito’s tomb. Of course the guide was me. I wanted to see if I was still Yugoslavian.  

Tito’s tomb is in the Museum of the 25th May, part of the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia, and is very close to Partisan Stadium, and at the beginning of December it was almost empty except for the coachload of visitors from Slovenia - the highest number of foreign tourists to Serbia are from Slovenia. Is this guilt or a desire to learn what they were part of for 46 years? 

The old Museum is now a large exhibition space and its current exhibition is Polish and Russian official and dissident art, called “Behind the Iron Curtain”. It is divided into 3 sections, WWII, the rebuilding of the war-torn country and happy people, and this last section had numerous portraits – farmers in the field, the naval officer with a huge medal, an ordinary, good looking woman in a blue suit with the communist star proudly pinned over her heart. The most significant work is from 1936 and shows Stalin’s name in big red letters with Lenin’s face reflecting back in the red paint. 

After the exhibition we went to see the “Flower House” and Tito’s tomb. The complex of the buildings used by Tito during his life is now his resting place. There are lots of angry people who think that Tito’s resting place should move from Belgrade to Croatia as he was Croatian and also because he damaged Serbia by dividing her into three parts, Inner Serbia, the Autonomous Region of Kosovo and the Autonomous Region of Vojvodina. There is even someone so resentful that they keep trying to sell his tomb on the Serbian version of Ebay!  

His tomb is very simple, plain white marble with his name and dates of birth and death engraved in gold. Sceptics are commenting on the absence of the red star, a symbol of communism, convinced that he was a Mason, although no one proved this yet. His tomb is positioned so that he can see the biggest working Church in Europe, St Sava. I am sure Tito didn’t want a view over a church especially when proclaiming that “Religion is the opium of the people” and went on to close down so many Orthodox churches, prosecuting priests and abolishing all religious gatherings. 

His office is filled with Ching dynasty furniture, generously given by a Slovenian family which made me wonder about the  combination of the two. But of course there are lots of unanswered questions about the communist time. There is a huge collection of batons which were used on mass relay races throughout Yugoslavia when all sorts of people would run – housewives, pioneers, workers, peasants, reformed political dissidents – and at the end present their batons to Tito at the Partisan Stadium on his birthday, 25th May. There would be a huge ceremony and half the schools and Universities in the country were closed. Did I go to any? No. My mum keeps saying that I am an antisocial person. 

Next to the Flower House there is a permanent exhibition of official gifts presented to Tito. Some are very bizarre such as the face towel, handmade and inscribed with “to dear Tito”. The art is beautiful but purpose wrong. I stayed the longest in front of a sword from XVII century brought to Sarajevo by the great great great grandchildren of Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic who got it from the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire. The sword is beautifully worked with Arabic inscriptions described by Orhan Pamuk in his book “My Name is Red”. There a good display of national customs from different parts of the former Yugoslavia, and it was nice to see them today when we are all dressed the same jeans and leather jackets. All the exhibits have an English description and the staff are very helpful. The atmosphere is very laid back and very organised. I bought a great souvenir, Tito’s cookery book with recipes for the meals served to his famous guests, Kennedy, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lolobridga, Kissenger and so on. 

We spent a good three hours at the museum altogether.  Entry tickets are 300 dinars, about £2.50.

ReadyClickAndGo offers private day trips and sightseeing excursions throughout Serbia, with your own English-speaking local guide, car and driver. A private city tour of Belgrade with a private car, driver and English-speaking local guide is £65 per person.

For more information please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or check our website at www.ReadyClickAndGo.com

Tara

Belgrade's newest attractions

ReadyClickAndGo, a travel company specialising in private day trips, spent a few days in Belgrade last week to discover more about this fast-changing city’s latest highlights; 

1. Virtual Tourist has recently declared Belgrade’s Ada Ciganlija Island to be the 3^rd best island within a city, behind Paris and Prague. Perfect for picnics and watersports, the island is covered by trees that muffle the sounds of the city, and it is also the site of Serbia’s first golf course. The beautifully clean waters of Sava Lake that lap its gravel beaches are home to many varieties of carp, and can reach 24 degrees C in the summer, thanks to the warm microclimate here http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE6B229Z20101203

2.  At the tip of the island you can watch one of Belgrade’s most eye-catching landmarks taking shape, a new bridge across the Sava River that will be the largest asymetric single-pylon cable-stayed bridge in the world. The main span of 376m has no supports actually in the Sava so as not to restrict shipping even during construction, and the deck is anchored by 80 stay cables as thick as a man’s arm and a single pylon 200 metres high – one of the highest points in the city. The whole bridge including the main span will be nearly a kilometre long and 45 metres wide with 6 road traffic lanes, 2 railway lines and 2 cycle and pedestrian paths, and it is due for completion in September 2011. http://www.savabridge.com/project.htm

3.  Just a few metres higher than Sava Bridge is Mount Avala’s TV transmitter tower, reopened earlier this year and a popular out-of-town picnic spot for locals. This new tower is almost identical to the original that was bombed by NATO in 1999, and money for its reconstruction was raised by donations from over a million people. It is slightly taller and much better built however, and is one of few built as a tripod anywhere in the world.

 http://serbiatraveller.blogspot.com/2010/11/avala-mountain-and-national-park-near.html 

4.  Another tower in Belgrade has been restored and will re-open any day now, and that is the medieval Nebojsa Tower at the foot of Kalemegdan Fortress. Renovations were partly funded by Greece as one of their revolutionary heroes was executed in the tower when it was a prison, and one of the exhibitions will feature his life. Other exhibitions will be on the shared history of Serbia and Greece under Turkish occupation. 

 

5.   The Museum of Yugoslav History is hosting an exhibition of modern art until the 15^th February 2011 in the Museum of 25^th May, called Beyond the Iron Curtain. Painting and sculpture by Soviet and Polish artists from 1945 to 1989, both official and dissident, is on display, and you can also visit Tito’s tomb, ironically with a great view of the vast new St Sava Church. 

Whilst travelling around Belgrade can be straightforward on public transport or on foot if you can master some Cyrillic script first, getting out of the city is often a little more challenging. ReadyClickAndGo offers private day trips and sightseeing excursions throughout Serbia, with your own English-speaking local guide, car and driver. A private day trip from Belgrade city centre to Avala Mountain and the nearby Vinca archaeological site with a private car, driver and English-speaking local guide is £75 per person.

For more information about Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com

A Serbians second home, the kafana

 

The English have pubs, the French their cafes, Italians their ice cream parlours, the Greek Tavernas and we, Serbians, have Kafanas or second homes as we spend more time there than at home. The word Kafana is derived from the Turkish kahvehane (“coffee house”) which is in turn derived from the Persian term qahveh-khaneh and the first kafana in Serbia was opened by the Turks in the part of Belgrade called Dorcol, in 1522, at the start of their 400 year occupation of the Balkans.

 

Kafanas are a cult for Serbian people and any self-respecting Serb has kafana or two. Maybe three depending on what your average Serbian citizen needs one for at any given time in his social life.In the past a kafana always had red or blue checked tablecloths and tin ashtrays but today many kafanas masquerade as restaurants or cafes or even clubs, but at heart they are simply a kafana. So there is a kafana for a social gathering which includes lots of alcohol interspersed with breaks for tasty food, loud live folk music, with smashed glases on the floor and dancing on the tables.

There are kafanas near the office where all the office games and intrigue take place, always described however as ‘business meetings’.  There are a few kafanas which are always full even though there is never any live music or good food, but which still live on their reputation as a haunt for long-ago heroes or intellectuals who would freely discuss politics during the communist era when there was no reliable information except what could be gleaned in such places – nowadays people still go there to be seen and to gossip. And there is a new breed of family kafanas where there is no live music only a kids’ garden in the back, and very good food! 

 

You know you have succeeded in life if the waiter of your kafana knows you by name, your favourite table has a reserved sign on it just for you and when you get your favourite drink served before you even take your jacket off. If you are well known and short of money you can drink and eat free and pay when you get money.  You waiter is your best friend and confidant as he knows where you are and never tells anybody. Not even your other half.

 

If you are coming to Belgrade you must explore a bohemian part of town called Skadarlija where live music and good food last until the early hours. The most famous kafana here is Tri Sesira (the three hats) but there are many others, such as the Dva Jelena ( Two stags ), Ima Dana and the famous Znak Pitanja (the question mark, the kafana with no name). This is in an old traditional house, typically Serbian, very rustic, with laid-back service and good food.

 

A small tip for foreigners going to a kafana with Serbians – your host will never allow you to pay for dinner or drinks, so don’t even try to pay. Just raise your glass, look at your host and shout cheers – ZIVELI!!!!! 

For more information about Serbia and private dat trips in Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or check our website at www.ReadyClickAndGo.com

Tara